A waxing question for those who might know

"Jeff-God-of-Biscuits" (Jeff-God-of-Biscuits)
04/30/2014 at 01:22 • Filed to: None

I have a 07 300C, and I can never seem to get a good wax on it. I have tried 7-8 different waxes (I can't remember them all but Zymol, Turtle Wax, Mequiars, and even just recently, Griots Carnauba Paste) and though they will all look good, I can never get any of the lasting water beading that I am used to getting with my other cars. I know it seems strange, but even this last time, I thought I had it beat with the Griots, (waxed it on Sunday, even put 2 coats on the hood) but 2 days later, not a trace of water beading to be seen! I have tried to apply by hand / remove by hand, apply with RO buffer / remove with RO, apply with RO / remove by hand. Everything that I can think of I have tried, but I can't get the paint protection I am looking for. Any suggestions? I am washing with an enviro friendly car wash designed to not remove wax as well.

DISCUSSION (19)

Ferrero1911 > Jeff-God-of-Biscuits
04/30/2014 at 01:31

Do you clay the car before you wax it? How long are you leaving the wax on there before wiping it off? I think there might be something in your process that isn't working, not necessarily the wax. My wax beads for about 6 months, but it doesn't rain much here.

Squid > Jeff-God-of-Biscuits
04/30/2014 at 01:33

Have you tried multiple layers? I generally put at least 2 layers when I wax. You may also try to use a spray detailer the next day to help add protection. From my general understanding it takes at least 24 hours for the synthetics to cure to your paint for optimal protection.

Maybe your paint just hates you? Have you tried stripping all the wax and starting fresh? I dunno, that seems kind of odd that they only last a few days.

Jeff-God-of-Biscuits > Ferrero1911
04/30/2014 at 01:35

My next step was to try and clay, but i have not done it yet. I haven't changed much from my previous experience, and I have been washing and waxing for the last 30 or so years. It has to be something that I am doing, but for the life of me, I cant figure out what. It might be that I need to just let it sit longer... but it was nice and white as I buffed it out. I'm just getting stumped!

Jeff-God-of-Biscuits > Squid
04/30/2014 at 01:39

I haven't given up on the thought that the paint hates me. But I am thinking that the next step is going to be to strip the wax, clay it, and start over. My wife insists that it's because it's just a shitty ass American car, so it has now become a matter of national pride to get Betty so slick she slides just lookin at her.

Ferrero1911 > Jeff-God-of-Biscuits
04/30/2014 at 01:39

Hmm, have you had this car since new or did you just get it? Maybe the paint has picked up some weird contaminant that is keeping the wax from sticking and claying will fix it. If you've been waxing for 30 years I doubt it's anything you're doing. Maybe the wax doesn't like the temperature or humidity so it's not curing properly?

Jeff-God-of-Biscuits > Ferrero1911
04/30/2014 at 01:48

I got her about 2 years ago, so, no, I have not had her since new. The weather was pretty much perfect as well, 65-75, low humidity, a little evening sun, but nothing really hard... Like I said, I am pretty weirded out by just how badly I am doing this! One thing I just thought of is microfiber towels... Will they take off all the wax as you buff the wax off? I wouldn't think so, and although I could feel the cloth "loading up" as I went along, it didn't feel off. That, and I could feel a distinct difference between the waxed and unwaxed partions of the car. I can't check at the moment because it's raining and 2 AM.

Squid > Jeff-God-of-Biscuits
04/30/2014 at 01:51

Strip the wax and start over may be your best option. It sucks to start over but it probably will be worth it. See what the people that love detailing think on autogeek.net, they can probably help you figure it out.

Ferrero1911 > Jeff-God-of-Biscuits
04/30/2014 at 02:14

Microfiber should be ok. I use a pretty fluffy one and it doesn't take off too much wax. I think if you clay it your wax will work better, but it really could be crappy paint.

Newsboy > Jeff-God-of-Biscuits
04/30/2014 at 02:28

What others have said: wash with a harsh detergent (dish soap should do the trick), then clay, then a coat of wax. I like the Griot's Carnauba Paste best, easy on, easy off.

If you want a really long lasting finish, start with a coat of Griot's Carnauba Paste, then follow with 2-5 coats of Griot's Best of Show Wax, allowing 2-4 hours to cure between coats.

Something else that will help, although pricey: a water de-ionizer. They run $250-500, but they'll strip the minerals out of your tap water. End result: you don't have to towel dry, and thus won't remove wax every time you dry the car. Just let it air dry, and voila, spot-free finish.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/portab…

Jeff-God-of-Biscuits > Newsboy
04/30/2014 at 02:33

I think that's what I will end up doing, and I might even throw a paint cleaner on before I clay. I usually waterblade most of the water off before I hit the trouble spots with a 25 year old towel. Hey Kool-Aid ftw!

Jeff-God-of-Biscuits > Squid
04/30/2014 at 02:35

That's actually where I got the wax! They had a 2 for 1 on the Griot's paste wax going, and I figured I would try old school quality over these new fangled gimmicky stuffs.

Newsboy > Jeff-God-of-Biscuits
04/30/2014 at 02:48

I've used the waterblade, but I found something even better: a $10 electric leaf blower from Sears.

Kylemaro > Jeff-God-of-Biscuits
04/30/2014 at 04:27

oh man its a dark car too this should be easy. wash it first use a soap without any wax in it. i know they say not to but fuck it dawn works just fine. after youre positive its clean (clay bar it ect if you have to) thats when you use something like meguiars gold class paste wax (old school in the tub) and really let it sit on for about......well a good measure is start on the drivers side of the hood. go around the whole car applying the wax getting an even coat when you get back to the hood on the passengers side. wait five minutes then take that first coat off. now for the second coat we're gonna lay a bit thicker layer on. only now we're gonna take it off with a low speed setting on a 10" orbital buffer after that well if you do everything properly it should be long past dark and your car will look great in the morning and all that morning dew will be beaded up and rush right off when you get moving. ive had alot of black cars and not a one ever looked dirty/cloudy/dull

quarterlifecrisis > Jeff-God-of-Biscuits
04/30/2014 at 08:26

I've read other comments, but unfortunately it's hard to reply to one of those and ensure that the OP (you) see it. Wax is only good for so long, and it's primary function is to protect (maybe in some cases with carnuba to make things shiny). There's been a lot of good advice given, I would defintely clay the car, and possibly do a deep clean/polish on the paint. Try a synthetic sealant, topped by a carnuba. Should bead nicely.

I see the VA plates...if you're anywhere close to the NC state line (specifically the Triangle) we can have a detail party and get it beading all nicely.

ElCommentamino > Jeff-God-of-Biscuits
04/30/2014 at 09:25

It's probably not your technique but partially your product and partially your process. Most of the products you mentioned are about the same. The Griots wax is a nice product but really just a beauty wax. None offer great durability. Not their strength.

One thing to remember about waxes is they are simply the last step product used to protect the polishing steps done prior. If the wax is not adhering to a properly prepared surface, it will wash (or melt) right off.

I'd recommend not only claying (an important step but only remove surface contaminents) but a serious polishing of the paint. If you have a buffer, that will help produce better results. Polishing will remove/reduce swirl marks, water spots, oxidation, and leave a prepared surface ready for wax. When you are finished you will be stunned by how good the car looks.

FWIW, I just bought a 2008 300C (not AWD like yours) in brilliant black. I'm in the process of detailing it to my standards. Here's what I'm using:

Machine - Griots Garage random orbital polisher + Meguiars microfiber cutting disc (for compounding), 3M black foam finishing pad (for finishing)

Polishes - Meguiar M105 (compounding step), Meguiars M205 (finishing step)

Last step - I have lots of choices. Probably Blackfire wet diamond or Zaino. Might try the new coating from Duragloss.

I hope this helps!

Jeff-God-of-Biscuits > Kylemaro
04/30/2014 at 12:57

dismissed the dupe... but I've had an 11" buffer for 20 years, but I picked up a 6" random orbit a few months ago, and I have been using that one.

Jeff-God-of-Biscuits > quarterlifecrisis
04/30/2014 at 12:58

Yeah, I think I will just end up taking down to ground zero and starting there. I am on the other side of VA though, up near DC, so it looks like the party is over before it even starts. Thanks though.

quarterlifecrisis > Jeff-God-of-Biscuits
04/30/2014 at 13:06

Eh. In that case, set aside a weekend and get after it. You should see good results if you get it completely done in one shot.

Buick Mackane > Jeff-God-of-Biscuits
05/16/2014 at 04:46

If you don't like to wax your car every couple of months and also want a long lasting shine and UV protection for your paint job then you should be using Nufinish car polish. Regular Carnauba wax only lasts two or three months at most. Use detailing clay before you apply the Nufinish polish. Done properly with Nufinish your car's paint job is sealed and protected for a year, no problem. No more waxing of the car every few months. If you really enjoy waxing your car in the hot summer and the freezing winter every few months then just stick with carnauba wax.